| South Florida Sun-Sentinel.com
Pavilion Grille / Boca Raton
By Donald Kim South Florida Sun-Sentinel March 14, 2008  Located in a five-story office building, the Pavilion Grille offers a well-appointed, cozy, 50-seat dining room, plus "inside al fresco" dining and banquet space out in the cavernous lobby area. The lobby also boasts a full service bar and polished dance floor.
The Pavilion Grille's weekday lunch did not leave me enthusiastic. Speed of service was sorely lacking. The Reuben ($9) left much to be desired. The fresh-baked roll for the hamburger ($7 plus 50 cents per add on) was heavy and entirely too much bread. The Sonoma Salad ($7) was a wonderful combination of raisins, candied pecans, mesclun salad greens, fresh apples and gorgonzola cheese. I would have preferred a little less of the excellent vinaigrette tossed in, or perhaps served on the side. When I visited for dinner, the evening meal was utterly superb. Excuse the pun, but it was like the difference between night and day. The continental dinner menu has a good cross section of classic items as well as a scattering of more contemporary dishes. Danish meatballs ($8), as an appetizer, is an unusual item to find on a fine dining menu. The dish is wonderful. The quality of the beef stands out, so the sauce is not required to carry the flavor. The pickles served with the dish are delightful. The sesame-crusted ahi tuna appetizer ($9) was perfectly seared without cooking too deeply into the delicate yellowfin tuna. It was interesting to find capers on the plate alongside pickled ginger and wasabi. This gives the dish the suggestion of classical cuisine fusion. There is a good selection of seafood. Potato-crusted salmon ($20) with pinot noir sauce sounds very interesting, as does the Chilean sea bass in champagne beurre-blanc sauce ($33). The sesame tuna described above is also offered as an entree. A 14-ounce bone-in veal loin chop ($34) is listed on the menu. Traditional steaks are offered in the $30 price range and are available with bearnaise, bordelaise or peppercorn sauces. Other entrees include veal Oscar, steak au poivre, shrimp Provencal, rack of lamb and roast duck. All are examples of the restaurant's traditional continental influence. The crusting on the mustard and herb-crusted rack of lamb ($32) is delicate and complementary, while the meat is cooked perfectly to the temperature ordered. The plating is elegant, with a light drizzle of kiwi and red wine sauces plus potato puree and baby garden vegetables. The roast duck ($26) is expertly prepared. The skin on the half duck is nice and crisp, with the meat juicy and tender. The sauteed red cabbage plated with the duck is an excellent pairing and the accompanying lyonnaise potatoes are very nice. The Pavilion Grille's wine list offers a good selection, with representatives from around the globe. Glasses are priced between $6 and $11. The chocolate surprise dessert ($6) is a masterpiece not to be missed. The cappuccino and espresso are a notably good ending to your meal. Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at foodie@fishsticks.cc or in care of the Sun-Sentinel. ■■■ Cuisine: Continental 301 Yamato Road, Boca Raton 561-912-0000 Paviliongrille.com Cost: moderate-expensive Credit cards: all major Hours: lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday Reservations: recommended Bar: full service Sound level: quiet in dining room; loud in atrium when dancing offered Smoking: prohibited Wheelchair accessible: yes Copyright © 2008, South Florida Sun-Sentinel |
